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Thyme fragrant heights
The first glimpse of a mountain is a
memorable moment. Even if you have often looked at its photograph, as of a
far-off beloved, the magic and pleasure of the moment when you encounter
it in reality is quite different. Perhaps it is this sense of excitement
that distinguishes mountaineers. The Forestry Department buildings and
the beautiful lake nearby gradually disappeared from sight as we walked
along the earth track through the world's largest cedar forest. We were
climbing steadily higher and our bags were heavy. The air was cool.We had
spent the night in a pleasant hotel in Elmalı, slept well, and eaten a
good breakfast. We had nothing to complain about. All we wanted now was to
get our first sight of Kızlarsivrisi, the highest peak in the western
Toros range. For that we had to reach the open pastures beyond the forest,
which despite all its charms seemed
claustrophobic. |
Finally the trees on both sides of the path thinned,
and the mountain suddenly appeared in view directly ahead. The view
was a Swiss postcard classic. Faced with that unreal flawlessness
all we could do was utter exclamations. The peak which rose into
the sky was a perfect pyramid. We discussed our route on the basis
of the information we had gathered beforehand, resolving finally to
approach from due west and after climbing a little, continue up the
south face. However, on the northwest face I could see such superb
short routes, that I walked on entranced. Almost certainly no one
had ever tried those. |

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| Until recent years the 3086 metre Kızlarsivrisi
had not attracted much attention from mountaineers. With
scores of peaks over 3500 metres in height clustered in the
Aladağ Mountains of central Anatolia, for instance, why should
anyone want to bother with this modest isolated peak? What was
more, it was possible for anyone with a reasonable sense of
balance to walk up the south face without ever putting hand to
rock. That was why some mountaineers dismissed Kızlarsivrisi
as being a hike not a climb. But so what! Knowing all this in
no way tarnished the joy I felt at seeing this mountain for
the first time, nor did it diminish the thrill of
discovery. |

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The following day
we would find a route up a mountain we had never climbed
before. Although 3000 metres might not seem much, for those of
us who have spent our lives at sea level it is a height not
easy to reach in one day. What is more, even the world's
easiest mountain can present serious problems if heavy cloud
reduces visibility to 20 metres. We set up camp next to a
spring at 2000 metres and settled down to watch the view. As
the sun gradually sank on the western horizon the air took on
that dry chill which we had missed so badly.Inhabitants of
Ankara and other places on Turkey's high plateaus will not
understand why we should miss it. But those familiar with the
damp chill of seaside towns will know what I
mean. |
Instead
of seeping into your bones, the sharp cold of high altitudes is
invigorating. Early the following day we began our climb. At first
everything went well, but towards noon the sky suddenly clouded
over.
First the peak disappeared from sight, and then
everything but our immediate surroundings. We carried on for a while
longer through white nothingness, but at 2800 metres (if our
altimeters were to be believed) we turned back. This did not
count, we assured one another. We would be back
again.
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